Create a Herbal Sanctuary: The Last Guide You NEED for Growing Herbs Cannabis Microgreens +

➡ The text is about a person sharing their decade-long experience in growing plants, particularly cannabis. They discuss the importance of understanding different light spectrums and their effects on plant growth. They also explain how to set up a grow area in a basement, emphasizing the need to control moisture and heat. Lastly, they compare different types of lights (fluorescent, LED, high pressure sodium, and ceramic metal halide) in terms of heat, light, and power efficiency, and how these factors affect plant growth.
➡ Lighting for plants involves different types of lights and technologies. Older, heavier lights used ballasts, while newer, digital ones use drivers. LEDs, the newest tech, require a heat sink to cool down. The intensity and type of light needed varies depending on the plant’s stage of growth and strain. Understanding the science behind lighting, including lumens and PPFD measurements, is crucial to avoid getting misled and to ensure optimal plant growth.
➡ When growing plants, it’s important to keep the air flowing to prevent disease. Starting seedlings can be done in various ways, but the simpler, the better. They need oxygen, nutrients, water, and light. Using perlite at the bottom of the pot helps with drainage, and adding vermiculite helps retain water. It’s also important to label each plant, as each seed can grow differently. When the seedlings are small, they can be transferred to a different container. It’s also possible to separate seeds by putting them in water. Once the seeds are planted, they should be lightly covered and kept moist. Finally, the plants should be placed under a light and given plenty of air.
➡ This text provides a detailed guide on how to grow plants, particularly focusing on seedlings. It emphasizes the importance of providing the right conditions for the seeds, such as the correct amount of light, water, and temperature. The text also shares tips on how to care for the plants as they grow, including the use of fans and the importance of not overwatering. Additionally, it offers advice on using nutrients and creating your own formulas for plant growth, and encourages readers to enjoy the process of growing their own plants.
➡ GK from the Disclosure Hub and Nature from Green Mountain Greenery are offering their services for free out of love. They want you to enjoy and benefit from their work without having to pay anything.
➡ This text discusses the importance of proper lighting for indoor plant growth. It suggests that while expensive lights can enhance growth, cheaper options can also work well, especially for herbs. The text also emphasizes the importance of not overdoing it with light, as less is often more in plant growth. It also discusses the use of timers, light movers, and other tools for managing light exposure, as well as the importance of controlling temperature, humidity, and potential pests in the grow area.
➡ When using extension cords, remember two things: the thicker the cord, the more power it can handle without overheating, and the longer the cord, the more power it loses due to heat dissipation. Also, keep your electronics cool to make them last longer and avoid danger. For plant care, ensure good air circulation and ventilation, which can be achieved with fans and a fan speed controller to avoid damaging delicate leaves. Lastly, consider the placement of your air vents and the need for heat and humidity for seedlings, and remember that things don’t need to be airtight unless you’re using CO2.
➡ The text discusses the use of various tools and substances to maintain optimal conditions for plant growth. It mentions the use of Ink Bird sensors to regulate temperature and humidity, and the importance of maintaining the correct pH levels using pH drops. The text also highlights the need to treat water to remove chlorine and chloramine, using substances like humic acid and a potent, cheap product that converts these harmful substances into plant-friendly ones. It further discusses the importance of adding beneficial bacteria to the water to create a healthy environment for plants, and the use of mycorrhizae, a beneficial fungus. The text also mentions the use of raw cane sugar to feed these bacteria. Lastly, it talks about the need for different reservoirs to cater to plants with varying pH needs.
➡ The text explains how to properly fill and maintain a water reservoir for plants, emphasizing the importance of pH balance and aeration. It also discusses the use of a sub pump for automatic watering and the benefits of hand watering for smaller plants. The text highlights the importance of mycorrhizae, a type of beneficial fungus, in plant growth and health. Lastly, it mentions the potential of mushrooms in various fields, from medicine to environmental conservation.
➡ The text explains how to set up an automatic plant watering system with the right pH levels. It involves creating three buckets of water with different pH levels (4.0, 6.0, and 8.0) using pH up and down solutions. The pH levels are adjusted to ensure the plants can absorb nutrients properly. The text also emphasizes the importance of maintaining room temperature for the water, preventing evaporation, and adding beneficial substances like humic acid and a pond detoxifier.
➡ This text explains how to prepare a nutrient-rich solution for plants, focusing on the importance of microbes and maintaining the right pH level. It also discusses the use of different nutrients, including salt-based ones and chicken poop, and the need to adjust these based on the type of plant being grown. The text then covers how to cover the buckets to reduce evaporation and how to germinate seeds, emphasizing the difference between light-dependent and dark-dependent seeds and the need for a warm, moist, and sterile environment.
➡ The text discusses various experiments conducted on seed germination using different types of water, soils, and methods. The author also shares tips on maintaining humidity in the growing area and the benefits of using mycorrhizae in the soil. The experiments and tips are part of a larger project that will be shared in a free book on the author’s website. The author emphasizes the importance of experimentation and documentation in understanding plant growth and care.
➡ Pro mix is a versatile substance used for gardening, but it needs to be broken down and mixed with water before use. Perlite and vermiculite are added to the mix for drainage and water absorption respectively, along with microrrhizae for beneficial bacteria. When transplanting plants, cloth pots are recommended as they prevent roots from getting bound and promote a healthy root structure. It’s also important to maintain the leaves’ health and occasionally trim them to redirect energy to the roots, promoting growth.

The hardest and most important information to find right now. Seriously, how to grow indoors, outdoors in general, how do you develop a green thumb? All these videos out there, and you watch more than one and they contradict each other. I’ve already went through this about ten years ago, and I’ve been doing this for ten years, and I’m at the point where I’m done gatekeeping, and I want to give you everything I know. So before we get started, just understand that once you master the cannabis plant, you can grow anything. And I just want to show you my portfolio.

You can skip it if you’ve already seen it. It’s ten minutes long from this point. And if you want to get straight to the video on how to grow, you can skip it. But if you want to see why you should be listening to me and the things that I can provide for you, take a second and check this out. So that was the last ten years of my life. Now that you got to know me a little bit, let me teach you how to do this. Make sure you get a pen and a piece of paper.

You’re going to want to take notes, I promise. And this stuff will work. And I’ll even show you. This is how to grow from the I know Nature series by disclosure hub and green mountain greenery. So this is the space I’m choosing to use for the grow area. This is my old grow area here. Something you can do is put in two by fours in your basement and just do something like this. You’re just hanging out. But because of this in here, I’m not growing. I have my herbs in here, but I could grow in here.

I’m going to do something similar to that here, only there’s going to be no wood, so it’s just going to free hang from the ceiling, which is fine. The reason why I’m doing this is two reasons. One, I don’t want moisture down here, because if I have moisture down here, it’s going to promote mold. And two, I want to be able to keep the heat in here because during the winter it gets kind of chilly. So I want to be able to have a heater in here that doesn’t just leave. So I’m going to make this encapsulated.

I’m going to use this adhesive spray to then seal it. Okay. And then we’re going to use zippers. They’re sticky zippers that go on there, and it turns the plastic into a door. Usually you’re going to want to use something called black and white. Poly black on the back, and it’s white on the other side, so it’s reflective. So we’re going to get this going for the herbs, and let’s get to it. Okay, what you’re going to need is simple, some tape, razor blades, or just a one razor blade with a cutter or scissors or both staples.

Staple gun adhesive. Now, let’s keep in mind a few things. This is something I’ve developed over the years. All right? So screws with wire attached to them. All right. They’re pretty versatile. All right. If I was doing a professional setup, it wouldn’t look so ghetto, but I don’t care. I’m just doing herbs down here in my basement. These are quick little tips. Okay, that’s on there. Look, this is how I do my lights. You put the screw out, leave it hanging out, and you wrap it around. All right? Okay, so here we have multiple different lights.

Let’s get into lighting real quick. All right, so first, let’s get into color, the color of lighting. All right, we’re gonna begin with blue. Okay. The spectrum of blue. So one thing that the blue spectrum does is it makes the nodes less spaced apart. So if you look, see new growth to new growth, the v to v, those will be closer together, more compact with the blue light. Blue light activates and stimulates the root growth inside of plants as well, because of photoreceptors that it triggers, called phototropism and gravitropism. Blue light also triggers the stomata, which are the little holes inside the leaves to open so that they’re able to breathe and regulate air, and it also triggers leaf growth.

So you would use something with more of a blue light in a setting, like seeds, vegetative growth, or if you wanted to make a sativa, a lot closer together, less spaced apart. But you absolutely need red light as well. All blue is not good. You absolutely need red. And if you look at these, this has blue and white, and white does have a little bit of red in it. So this does still have red when it’s in blue mode. Let’s get into red. Red will make the plant stretch, it’ll make the nodes less close together, and it’s perfect for flowering.

And if you look at the sun in nature, when it’s up in the spring, it’s more blue, and at the end of the year, it’s more red. So they’re trying to mimic the natural sun’s progression here, both of them combined. Now, that could either look like this or it could look like this. Now we’ll get into that in a minute. Getting into Kelvin, warm or red is between 2000 and 2500, and cool or blue is between 5010 thousand. Okay, so that’s Kelvin. So when you see 2800k, that means it’s more on the red spectrum. And this is the relevancy to plants.

Few more spectrums that are interesting. This is green. Green spectrum isn’t really seen by plants. They think it’s because the leaves are green, the chlorophyll. So this is something you would use, for instance, at nighttime when their plants are flowering, you don’t want to disturb their darkness. So you would use something like green, at least with cannabis, to go in, and they wouldn’t recognize it, so you wouldn’t disturb their cycle, at least in theory, and a lot of people would agree with that. So two more spectrums. One would be infrared. This thing’s not on button cameras.

You know, the red lights you see, that’s infrared, so we can’t really see that, but the plants can. Now people have grow cameras inside their grows, and nobody has reported that. I’ve seen it as having infrared being an issue. But just keep in mind, these plants see light way differently than we do. So who knows? The last spectrum I wanted to touch base on is uv. All right. This was a uv led from back in the day. I didn’t get it to work right. Uv is very important for plants because at least for cannabis, the more uv light you have, the more resin they’re going to produce, or crystals.

So mint also has trichomes, just like cannabis does. And the more uv they have, then they will trigger a defense response, producing more resin and more medicinal compounds that we want from the plant. So all of these spectrums are relevant. Let’s get into the type of lights real quick. This is a fluorescent. Usually it’s a tube with gas in it. Okay? You can have it in a tube or in a bulb like this. This. Then we have the Led. Okay, the LED is then we get into the high pressure sodium. Okay, this is a 600 watt high pressure sodium bulb.

It could technically fit a thousand watt, but I don’t suggest it. Okay, this is a double ended high pressure sodium bulb, which means each end is connected, and that is a thousand watt. And this is a thousand watt high pressure sodium, non double ended. So this thing in there basically ignites like a mini sun, and it gets very, very hot and it creates your light. And then we have something called a ceramic metal halide. Ceramic metal halides are awesome because a 315 watt ceramic metal halide is only 315 watts and is not as hot as a 600, but they produce the same amount of lumens.

Okay? This was old Gen, this is new gen. And these were amazing for a while, but now we have Led. So the big difference between these lights is the amount of heat per the amount of light they produce to the amount of power they produce. Okay? So these, let’s say this is 600 watts. This gets very hot, okay? It produces about. About 70,000 lm when you get right up close to it, and then it dissipates. Now, an LED with 250 watts can literally create the same amount of light this can with half the power. Right? So that’s why ceramic metal halide was amazing, because it wasn’t as hot, didn’t dissipate as much heat, which wastes energy.

And it utilized more in lumens and light. Now, up here, leds did the same thing, but they’re even more efficient. Okay? And these are the least efficient. But these are probably some of the most amazing lights when it comes to seedlings and small plants, especially herbs. Now, all of these things aren’t that relevant if you’re just growing herbs. You don’t need lights like this when you’re growing herbs, unless you put one of these very, very high up in the air, and it would have a very big footprint of really good light. Now, unlike small bulbs like this, the big, powerful lights need things called ballasts.

Okay? This is for a ceramic metal halide, and this is for, I think, also a ceramic metal halide. And these are called digital ballasts. The old ballast were large and heavy. These are still big, but the other ones were even bigger and even heavier. Now, this is new technology. So there was magnetic. Now these are digitals. Now, when you get into leds, they have something called a driver. Okay? This is an led driver. And that’s basically a ballast for an led. Now, when you get into the leds, they need something called a heat sink. Okay? That’s how they cool down.

This is made out of aluminum. It gets hot, air blows through this, it cools down the lights. There’s a special paste on the back of it that allows it to be basically one with the aluminum, heat wise. And it dissipates the heat. So now, when you see this, this is basically the heat sink for these leds. These are really nice. This is some of the newest tech. These are around $500 heat dissipation. The old method used to use these hoods. Okay? Hoods or reflectors. Some reflectors are not air cooled. This is a reflector or a hood.

Technically, this is a reflector. This whole thing is a hood. These are air cooled, okay? Which means you can hook up a vent fan to it and you can rip out air, which means you can get these closer to your plants, which is what you want without burning them. And at the same time, during the winter, you could utilize this heat to heat your house, to heat your grow area. So there’s a many different ways to utilize. If you heat was an issue, you could use that issue as a solution. So obviously, these big lights have bulbs, and the leds have something called diodes, okay? Diodes are very important.

I’ve made my own leds. That’s what you’re looking at here. This is one of the best lights I’ve ever created. They hang up all separately and they’re all connected. It looks like a mess, but I learned a lot from creative. This light. And these are specifically, these are called cre diodes, which is a brand. Now, with these bulbs, if you touch them with your hands and get oil on them and turn them on, you’re going to have a bad day because they can explode. So you don’t want to touch these with your fingers. Very important leds.

You don’t have to worry about that. But just. I wouldn’t touch them anyway either. So, new technology, leds, old technology, HPS, CMH and fluorescent, okay? Fluorescence. And this technology can be measured with something called a Lux meter or lumen meter. These new lights are measured with a par meter or a quantum meter. Two different pieces of equipment. You would get probably $50 to $80 for a lumen meter. It’s probably four to 500 for a parmeter. So this is the lumen meter. Okay? This tests the Lumen, okay? So if you look, this is right around 2000, okay, so that’s 2000.

This is an important concept right here. 2000 to 1000 to 500. That’s how fast it dissipates in lumens, okay? From the bulb. Now, when you have something more powerful, like a high pressure sodium of the same watt, if they made one, this is 25 watts. If they made one at 25 watts, or if this was up to a 600 watt, this would be 500 lm. For the fluorescent of the same watt that was the HPS, it would go down even further. So that’s the point of having a bigger light is for a longer light distribution. But because the HPS is so hot, it’s not as efficient as an Led.

Now remember, these are lumens. 2000 lm. When we get over to led, we’re in something called PPFD or par. So par gets kind of complicated. But 700 ppfd is right around 40,000 lm. This is a 250 watt light. It’s called the HLG 300 L. So they marketed at the number 300, but it’s actually a 250, so that’s not too bad. They’re not being too unfair. Keep in mind, this is at 3500 kelvin. That’s the light. And it has cre diodes, which are expensive diodes. So the diodes and the drive matters as to how efficient the light is.

It says it’s 700 ppfd, which is 40,000 ppfd, or 40,000 inches. Then we come over here, a cheaper led 250. This is called the Viper Spectra 600 watt. Now, if you look, it’s actually a 260 watt. Really misleading. That’s why these lights are really misleading. You have to know the science behind it or you’re gonna get ripped off. Now, if you look down here at 18 inches, it says it’s 820 ppfd. Wow. So it’s got ten more walls, more ppfd. But if you look, it’s only 30,000 lm, because it’s red, white and blue. Instead of the 3600, you have less lumens, especially because they’re cheaper leds.

So even though it says it has more PPFD, it doesn’t have the same amount of light as this led does. So it gets complicated. But you have to understand this stuff. So let’s use cannabis as a reference point. Cannabis as a cutting needs about 5000 to 10,000 lm. Okay? In vegetative state, after it grows and it’s matured and it’s ready for full light in veg at that point, then it can handle between 15 and 50,000 lm in veg. Now, as you get in the flower, with cannabis flowering, they can handle up to 25 to 80,000 lm.

Now, keep in mind, it is strain dependent when it’s coming to cannabis, and I’m sure it’s plant dependent, phenotype dependent, when it comes to cannabis as well. Now, if you can’t do the measurements and you don’t know if your plants are getting enough light or if it’s too much, you’ll know the plant is getting too much light. When it starts to curl, it’ll start to curl and the leaves will start to curl, the heads will start to curl, and it’ll look like they’re trying to escape the light. When you’re flowering, your flowers of your buds will start to get white, no longer green, and it’s called bud bleaching.

Your buds will start to bleach. Also, when plants are stressed and they’re flowering, they’ll start the foxtail. Now, these are all things with cannabis. It will manifest in different ways when it’s in different plants. But this is a good reference point to start from. Now, what can happen if your plant is stressed with light? If you’re flowering, this could trigger something called bananas. That’s when your plant starts to throw different pollen sacs and it’ll pollinate the entire thing. And then, because it does that, because it’s trying to survive, and if it does that, the plants will then focus on producing seeds instead of producing the flower that you want, it’ll be less potent and it’ll be full of seeds.

And this will manifest, obviously, in different ways in different plants. Now, two amazing tips. Obviously, you already saw this. You can hang a string and you’ll know at what point what lumen is what, and that’ll help you. Also, the dimming function on lights is very, very helpful. So when you get an led with a dimmer, you can actually get it down closer and you can utilize it for different stages of growth. Make sure you get these adjustable light hangers as well. They come insanely handy when you want to get your plants closer or further away from different things in different scenarios.

Now, things will get a little complicated if you get an led with different lenses. Okay, some. Some lenses really concentrate the beam for a long time in one area. Some expands it out. That’s why these are amazing, because you can get them right on top of the plants and it’s nice and dispersed. It won’t be a hot spot in any area if you want to step it up. This is called a CO2 tank with a CO2 regulator. You connect this to a timer, get into those in a minute. But this, when you include CO2 up to 1500 ppm, at least for cannabis, and maybe different for other plants, then the plants can handle up to 2000 ppfd instead of 1500 ppfd, which means up to 100,000 lm instead of 75 to 80,000 lm, which means they can handle up to 95 degrees instead of 75 to 80 degrees, which means they need to eat more food as well.

So when you add more CO2, they can handle more light, they’ll produce more food, they’ll grow even faster. But that’s a whole different discussion. Just letting you know things do change when you change the environment. So when you’re in a scenario where it’s really hot and there’s not much you can do to ventilate it or add an ac, you can do things like adding CO2. And what that’ll do is it’ll make them able to handle more heat, obviously, which is exactly what you would want in a crazy situation like that. Just remember, understand what the details are so you don’t get ripped off.

$500 light. Amazing for flowering one four x four plant. If you’re using a trellis, you can make it a bush like that. This is an amazing light for veg. I run these in my veg rooms. They do great. The plants love it. Absolutely. Different applications, different options, different pricing points for different things. When you’re in herbs, you don’t need anything this crazy. If you had a light like this, you could have it way up on the ceiling and have a massive footprint, and your plants would love it. But because you’re doing herbs, I highly suggest this color of light, 3500k, is not necessarily what you want for veg.

Like we said before, you want something higher in white, higher in Kelvin. So you may not want this specific specifically, but they will grow underneath that. So there’s different applications for what you want. And you don’t need to spend a million dollars on grow lights. You can absolutely go, and you can buy cheap shop light for $20, and it’ll work for plants, especially for herbs. You don’t need any crazy lights like that. If you want them to be robust and grow faster, then you can invest in a better quality light. But that does not mean higher lumens.

You don’t want too much light. A lot of people, especially with cannabis and me myself, go in and they go way too hard, and they do way too much because they think more is better. And no, with growing, less is always more. Always. Another reason why I love these viper spectra is something called daisy chain. A daisy chain means you’re plugging it in with one cord, and this has an outlet on it, and you can literally chain multiple lights together and connect it to one timer. It’s literally amazing. I love daisy chain lights, and a lot of them do it.

Let’s get into the timers down here. These are very important for multiple reasons, whether you’re automatic feeding or if you’re controlling the light. Okay, we’ll get into the different lights and what the time does with how much darkness and light you have in a minute. All right, so these are timers you want a reliable timer. You don’t want these screwing up, especially if it’s cannabis. They could ruin the whole row. Okay, this right here is called an interval timer. These have so many different cool applications, so it’ll be on for a little bit, then it’ll turn off for a little bit.

So you could literally just do the math. If you love inventing type things and doing stuff like that, you’ll. You’ll know. This right here is an amazing thing. I’m sure there’s other brands other than pulse, but this is what I use, and this connects to your wi fi, and it always tells you what the temperature, humidity, and all of that is. So if, like, you have a flood in a grow room, the humidity will spike and you could set an alarm for yourself or a timer, or if it’s just too hot, it’ll let you know, send you an alert to your phone.

So these are really important for your indoor grow area as well, because you never know what’s going to happen. And I’m sure they have other things that you can, you know, put in, like a water sensor and stuff like that. So if you want to automate things, if you really want to get technical and you have some money, these are great tools. One other aspect about lights, you can also get a light mover. Okay, this is, I’ve had this for a while, and you basically put these on the ceiling, and it goes real slow and it slowly moves the light back and forth.

And you can use one light for a really large footprint. So these are really cool, too. They work really well and they last a while. The lighter the light, the better. But obviously, with anything motorized, it’s not going to last forever. So you’re going to want replacement parts. So getting into the time, how long should you keep your light on? All right, so if you’re flowering cannabis, you want 12 hours of darkness. Okay. The darkness is the important part. The light isn’t because you could give it 1 hour of light and 23 hours of darkness, and it’s still going to flower and it’s not going to stress it out.

You could even have 6 hours of darkness, 6 hours of light, 6 hours of darkness, 6 hours of light in a 24 hours period, and it still wouldn’t stress it out and it still would be fine. Now, here’s the issue. If you stress a plant out while it’s flowering, especially a cannabis plant, just like before, just like I said, it’s going to make it start producing those bananas, which will ruin your grow. Now, you may want that to happen. Seeds. But you better understand that those seeds are from a stressed plant, which means those new genetics will be unstable because they were stressed out.

Because in nature, when they go through this, they say, oh, no, there’s something wrong. We better produce seeds because we want our genetics to go on. And when you do that, those genetics are like, hey, we’re in a really tough environment, so we better do the same thing. So you really don’t want stressed out genetics. You don’t want to make mistakes like that, especially with cannabis, because it’s a big money crop, and it definitely affects other plants as well. Now, in vegetative state, you’ve got two different options. One, you have 24 hours of light you could do, which is what I do, and that’s controversial.

Some people say it stresses out the plant. It’s not natural, but I’ve done it for, for a long time. I’ve never had any issues. And normal people, if you want a normal area or other people, not necessarily normal, but 18 hours on, 6 hours off is the normal cycle for summer, at least indoors, when we’re recreating that synthetically. I’ll do another video at some point, but these are a couple important things. This is fungus gnat strips. You’re going to really want these if you’re growing mycorrhizae. I mean, even anyways, you’re definitely gonna want these. And it’s yellow to attract the bugs, and they’ll get stuck to it.

Very important. You also want ladybugs. They eat raisins. That’s an important thing. Don’t forget it. And this is something called mildew cure. It’s amazing for something called powdery mildew. If you see in your grow area that you see like a powder on top of your leaves, that’s a fungus. Okay. It looks just like that plant. Okay. And that’s called powdery mildew. Inside settings like this, a lot of people get it. It is like a fungus that is systemic, so that means it goes inside of the plant, and a lot of plants have it. A lot of people bring it inside of their grow rooms by, like, going to Lowe’s and then coming back in.

After going into the garden out there or going into the woods, you can easily bring in bugs and pathogens, including powdery mildew and fungus just like this. Okay. This is organic, and it’s great even for flowering buds, but when anything’s flowering, you really don’t want to spray anything on it. This is more vegetative, but this is organic, and it would be okay to put on herbs that you were eating, but that’s worst case scenario. Prevent PM, powdery mildew before it happens. Do your own research on that one final tip. When it comes to the light and flowering with cannabis, you can do 11 hours on, 13 hours off, and that’ll compensate for any light leaks that may happen in your tent or your grow area.

Never get a tent. A grow tent. I forgot to say that because grow tents cause mold on the bottom of them. Grow tents also leak light in them and gives you false confidence in a dark area. If your plant gets big, there’s not a lot of room to maneuver in them. They have their applications, like if you’re in a New York City apartment, but if you’re gonna grow, you want a whole area or you’re gonna regret it. Trust me. I may even expand this because I’m gonna have a bunch of herbs and I want a variety.

So who knows where I’m gonna go with this. But this is a great place to start. And once you have the foundation, it’s really easy to upgrade and do your thing. That’s lighting. Now let’s get into power breakers, extension cords, and all of the important stuff. When it comes to power and pulling power with herbs, we probably don’t need that much power. But let’s get into it just so you understand all of the aspects of all that, because it’s very important. Alright, so let’s talk power real quick. So something that you need to know is every breaker can handle 1800 watts, but you want to only draw probably around 1500 watts max.

Okay, so we have to figure out which outlets go to which breaker. And again, you probably won’t have to worry about this because you’re small scale. But just to cover all grounds, this is what you would do. You go ahead and you just mark each one on a piece of paper. And then you go and you test each outlet. You plug like a light into it and you flip each one until it shows you which outlet that is. And then you mark it just like this. Okay. And that way you know how much you can handle on each outlet when you’re using an extension cord.

Two things to keep in mind. Number one, you want it as thick as possible. And that’s because the more things you plug into an extension cord, the more power you’re going to draw from it and the more it’s going to heat up to the point where it could actually catch fire. So if you’re going to plug in a bunch of things or something powerful, you need a thick extension cord. The second thing is extension cord length. The longer the extension cord is, all extension cords dissipate heat, which makes the voltage drop. So the longer extension cord you have, the more heat is dissipating, which means you’re losing more electricity.

So it’s going to compensate with the breaker and it’s going to make it pop. So the longer the extension cord is, the more likely it’s going going to make your circuit pop due to drawing too much power from it. So let’s say you have 1500 watts on a breaker and it’s a really long extension cord. You may just pop the breaker because you’re drawing too much power from it. The next thing to keep in mind is to keep all your electronics cool. They’ll last longer, it’ll be less dangerous. It’s better for everything. And just keep in mind, you can utilize the heat from your electronics in different areas to do different things.

If you want it out of the there, you can put vent here to suck all the air out. Or if you want this heat because it’s cold, you can grab it and push it into the grow room. There’s many different applications with issues that things that could be a problem, could be a solution just as easy just to get in the detail. The reason why these heat up is because the type of metal that’s used when you’re flowing through something like super cold ceramic or gold silver is even better. There’s less resistance, then there’ll be less heat.

But because of the type of metal it is, this isn’t a million dollar cord, and most extension cords are pretty cheap. That type of metal will cause a certain resistance heating up, and that’s how you lose your electricity. The longer it is. If you had a real long extension cord with silver metal to transport your power as a conductor, this would not be an issue. Clarifies things a little more for people who are having a hard time understanding. So there’s a bunch of different things you can do. It doesn’t really matter what CFM you get. All right, well, it does.

It does depending on your application for this. These are kind of overkill. Again, you can get into that for the purpose of this video, I’m not going to get into CFM and what size fan you should get. But you want an inline fan. Okay, probably six inches. Good. You could get a four inch, but what you want is two of them. And the most important thing to get is a fan speed controller. All right, fan speed controller. Because you don’t want this thing full blast, you can do something called wind burn to your plants. And I didn’t know this, and when I first got into it years back, I had too much pressure going on in my area.

And that amount of pressure caused, like the leaves, to get damaged. They’re very delicate, so if you have too much pressure, it can really hurt them. Anyways, I’m going to install these and show you how that works real quick. Before I install these, I just want to say the reason why you need airflow is because around the leaves of the plants, there’s little tiny holes that allow them to breathe and release air. So those are called stomatas, and you want the air to be rotating around those. If they don’t, they will get sick and they will die.

You need air circulation and you need ventilation. It’s absolutely key. So all you need is a razor blade and a marker. I’ll show you how this is done. You take the tube and you use it, and you trace the tube where you want it to come in. One slit down, one slit across more slits, and you can even go one more time. When you’re deciding where your air vent is going to go, there’s a couple really important factors. I set it up rough and I tweak it later. I’m a very busy person, so what you’re seeing is very rushed.

Okay? But these are the concepts, the key, easy concepts. So as you’re pushing it, this one’s going to bring in the air. I’m bringing it in by the heater because it’s going to bring heat in, depending on where you bring it. Usually you want to bring in the fresh air from the bottom so it circulates, and then you have your exhaust at the top or vice versa. So the old stale air at the top leaves. Okay, that’s what you want. But what I’m doing here, I want as much heat in here, here as possible, because it’s going to be for seedlings.

So I’m going to push in the warm air here, and for my exhaust is going to be on the other side. The exhaust is going to be all the way down at the bottom. So as this pushes in air, it’s going to force the cold air at the bottom to leave and leave the hotter air. Now, some of that’s going to be stale, so you better hope you still have good circulation. But the way I’m going to do this, it’s going to maintain a lot of heat, and that’s what I want for the seedlings. If you have too much airflow going through here, then you’re not going to be able to keep heat or humidity.

And that is a no no. You need heat and humidity for these seedlings. They will grow like a rainforest. So just a couple side notes. You know, when there’s. When it’s not airtight, you know, I’m gonna tape this, but things don’t need to be airtight unless you’re running CO2. And you only gonna do that if you’re doing cannabis. So, again, things don’t need to be airtight. But the better the airtight, the better, because in case you need to do any other application, you’re ready to do it. Now, I just want to speak about something called a vapor barrier.

So you see that the distance between the walls here, the reason why it’s not butted up against the wall, is because if there isn’t a good amount of air, there’s no buffer. And what happens is condensation happens. So only a certain amount of moisture can be in the air according to a certain amount of temperature. So the higher the temperature, the more amount of moisture. So if you have a high temperature that has high humidity and it hits a really cold area, it’ll then just drop off all that water out. And when. When that happens, when you don’t have any vapor barrier, it starts to mold.

That’s how you get mold. Now, again, when you have these lights or when you have these fans here, okay, you can just have them pushing out into here, and then you can have dehumidifiers. You can have them exhausting outside. You can bring in fresh air from outside. But if you do that, you want to make sure you have a screen or a filter because you don’t want bugs coming in. And again, I’m going to get into it at some point, but you don’t want to bring in outside plants into the area, because you’ll bring in things like spider mites.

Some fans can be noisy. Some fans last longer than others. Some fans are a lot more quiet and have a lot of insulation eventually. Like, this fan is really noisy because it’s loose. I haven’t figured out how to fix it yet. I’m pretty sure you need some sort of machine. I don’t know how to get into it. Maybe possible. There are different sizes, six inches, eight inch, ten inch, and I’m sure other varying sizes. This is a carbon filter. You can filter air. This is a pre filter. This little thing here, and then in here there’s carbon.

So you can literally filter out air. Or bugs when you’re sucking in air. Or you can filter out smell or other things you don’t want leaving the area. And like, for instance, if you were painting a car or a car part inside of something like this, you could use a carbon filter to also filter out that smell if that’s something you needed. So these have many applications, and that’s just something that goes along with this. Okay. So again, I’ve done beautiful setups. This is literally just setup for her. But like I said, it’s the concept on this.

We have this one here. And again, you could. You could seal this off if you want. So this is the fan speed controller here. Turn up. Just want a trickle. Both of them just be a trickle. Right. And ignore these. These need to. These aren’t accurate anymore, but you can also label your stuff, too. Okay, now, these, this is important. Ink bird humidity sensor. Ink bird temperature sensor. Oh, this one’s also wi fi, I guess. So what this is, if you look, these have outlets. You set your. Your humidity, you set your temperature. These can trigger outlets based on temperature or humidity.

These have so many uses, it’s not even funny. They have a probe at the end. Here’s the temperature. They have a water one, too, as well. These, I mean, do the math. This is humidity one. Do the math. It’s endless. So, like, I can set it where if it gets too hot, it turns on the. Or if it gets too cold, it shuts off the exhaust. If it gets too hot, it turns on the exhaust. Or if it gets too. If it gets too dry, it shuts off the exhaust. And when it gets too humid, it turns on the exhaust.

So there. It’s literally endless. Okay, so here we have it. Before I get too much deeper into it. Okay. All right, so we’re gonna do the reservoir. Now, this is important. Pay attention. It’s really, really simple, really easy. But get a pen and piece of paper. Write this down. All right. You’re gonna need ph up, ph down. Just in case you make a mistake. Do not get a ph meter. They have a membrane that always dries up. It never lasts that long. So what you want is. You want ph drops. Tester drops with a ph. It’s a ph tester kit.

But you want the drops and a container. Ignore how messy this one is. I’ve had it for a while. After that, after we ph the water, then we’re going to treat the water. So most water has chlorine. We know that. And people think that you can just leave chlorine out and have it evaporate. In most cases, you can do that. Unfortunately, there’s chloramine inside the water as well. Now. So we have two things here. This is nourish. L. There’s a bunch of different ways to get this, but this is just humic acid. Humic acid counteracts the chlorine and almost nullifies it.

But not all the way, but it’ll make it ten times better in there for it. This. This is what you want. This is the key. It’s cheap, it’s potent. And what this does, it literally converts the chlorine and chloramine and heavy metals and other things into a different substance that the plants and the fish can actually eat. So this is good. I bet you this would even be good for pet water. I’m not sure you can call them and ask, but this is great for fish tanks, great for fish, great for plants, etcetera. This is going to counteract the chloramine and chlorine and make it safe for your plants.

This is going to also do that. Also, this provides food for the microorganisms that we are also going to add after we make it safe for them. So now, after this makes it a neutral environment, good bacteria and bad bacteria can grow. So that means anaerobic bacteria and aerobic. Anaerobic means no air. Aerobic means air. Anaerobic bacteria are things like salmonella or e. Coli. Good bacteria are good things like bacillus mycorrhizae. You can see it all on the back. This is one of the most amazing products. I’ve gone so deep down the microbe product path, and I’ve had this for a while.

I’m pretty sure it’s expired, so I’m not going to use it. But this, see, these are mycorrhizae. Super important. It’s white fungus that grows, which is so important, most people see it for the first time, want to kill it. I’ll get into that later. All right, so basically, when you have a neutral reservoir, you want to replace it with the good guys, and then you want to aerate the reservoir so the good guys stay alive and the bad guys have no chance. Now, you don’t need to use this to have something with all those, but it’s amazing.

It really does help. You could use something like hydroguard, which only has a few different bacteria, or one, I’m not sure where it is on here. There it is. Bacillus. Da da da da da da. So that just has one type of bacteria. And what that’ll do is it’ll, it’ll take up the space and they’ll grow. So just keep in mind, when you add this stuff, eventually you may have to add more, because as the populations grow, whether or not they have food will determine if they grow. And if they grow too much, then they’re going to start to die off.

So you have to add more. Anyways. Use your reservoirs as soon as you can, and if not, just follow the directions on the microbes and they’ll explain what to do. Other important things. This right here is called bacillus thungirleus, and I’m probably destroying that word, but natural is a product that has it, and these are little tiny granules with a bacteria on it. What this specific bacteria does is it eats the babies of fungus gnats. So fungus gnats and mosquitoes are basically the same thing as far as things that can hurt them. So this specific bacillus thungaras, you can also get mosquito dunks from ace hardware or online, and it’s the same thing.

But basically, when you, you put this in your reservoir, it does act as a bacteria to keep the bad guys out. And when you water your plants, you’re actually making a hostile environment. So these fungus gnats won’t form. So this is a preventative to fungus gnats. It’s a big deal if you don’t know what fungus gnats are, because it’s just what happens. So getting into mycorrhizae, there’s a bunch of different kinds. Plant success is my favorite. But mycorrhizae is that white, beautiful fungus that forms. Okay, this is soluble powder. So you just put it inside your water and water it into your plants.

It’s one of the most important things that you could have. All plants love it. It’s all throughout nature. I literally doubled and tripled my cannabis yields with it, let alone having healthy vegetative plants and herbs and stuff like that. So 90% of plants, if not all plants, can benefit from mycorrhizae. It’s very important. And here’s the important thing. When you put this inside of a reservoir, if you put a little bit in a reservoir, don’t put too much because it’ll grow. And when you put it in the reservoir, don’t have a pump going because these are so delicate that a pump can kill these.

So again, when you put it in a reservoir, make sure it’s delicate. You don’t need these in your reservoir. You can water these in by hand. You absolutely don’t I like to put it in my reservoir and keep it delicate just because that’s just what I like to do. And the last aspect, well, one of the last aspects, so this, don’t put too much sugar in there. This is mostly for like when cannabis is flowering, you feed the bacteria and it literally creates superfood for plants. So what this can do, your humic acid is going to do it in this case, but I may put a couple sprinkles.

But what you want is raw cane sugar. And raw cane sugar feeds these bacteria so they can survive. So if you’re making like a compost brew, you’re going to put molasses, some of the bacteria, and you’re going to heat it a little bit and aerate it. And you can literally build a super concentrated microbial soup that you can feed your plants. But anyways, this is a lighter version of it. It keeps your reservoir healthy. And each time you water your plants, you’re replenishing the microorganisms. And that’s one of the most important things when growing, whether you’re using salts or if you’re you, if you’re going organic.

I used to grow with Jack’s fertilizer, which was salts, and I’d always have to add more microbes to it because the salts kill the microbes. So it’s a constant war, just like in our gut. The next aspect is the reservoirs. Okay, listen, we have three here, okay? You don’t need something this big, but this is the way I roll. So we have two, five gallons. Why? It’s because of the ph. So getting into the ph, we want three different reservoirs of ph. Cannabis needs between six, 5.5 and 6.5 ph. Alright? There’s also plants that are more acidic and plants that are more alkaline.

So because we’re growing herbs, usually I just have a reservoir for veg and a reservoir for flour, which are two different stages of cannabis. But in this scenario, I’m going to have three. They’re all going to be for vegetative state, one for alkaline herbs, one for acidic herbs. And this right here is going to be my 5.5 to 6.5, basically my 6.0 ph reservoir. And I’ll show you a real quick way where you never have to take the ph again. You can just take it once. So basically what you do is when you fill this up.

So for this, luckily, we know the container is 40 gallons here. If not, you can fill up five gallon buckets and pour it in there. Until you realize how many five gallon buckets it takes to fill your container. And that’s how you can get a reference of measurement, which is very important. So here, 40 gallons. When I fill this to 40 gallons, I’m going to ph the water to 6.0, and I’m going to write down how much ph down I use to get it to that point. After I know that whenever I fill it up to this point, I know how much ph I need to put in here.

That being said, you can apply that concept to these two buckets. It’s going to really streamline the process. I hope that makes sense. And that’s why you want a marker and you want some tape. So, filling up the reservoir, how do you do it? So you can go back to where your washers are connected. You could get a. Yeah. And then once you have a y, all you got to do, hopefully this doesn’t leak. It’s been a while. Boom. Now that’s activated. And this goes to this hose, which is a crinkly hose. And it goes all the way back to here.

And this used to be amazing because I could bring this. Oh, yeah, there we go. Because I could bring this wherever I wanted all throughout the area. So now what I do is I take this and just start filling. So what I do is I want it filled to here. So I leave it. I leave it, like right here, so I can audibly hear it filling. And as soon as that sound goes away, I know I’m close to my mark. So you can go do stuff. Pay attention to the sound. I’ve over. I’ve overflowed many reservoirs because once that take a while, you kind of forget about.

So try not to do that now. I just wanted to say there’s multiple ways. Once you have your reservoirs filled, this is a sub pump. So this was pumping automatically. It would go to a line that would then go in here and it feed all my plants on a timer automatically. You could do that. But for these small herbs, we’re going to be wanting to hand water them anyway. You can also connect a pump to a. To a pipe, and you could literally put it in your grow area. And then you could take two extension cords.

Right, and you can plug one in the wall and have both the other ends ran two side by side. So that way when you connect the two ends in there. Or I connected it to a power strip. So when I connected it to a power strip, all I had to do was literally press the switch on the power switch on the power strip. And it would turn on the pump, and it give me water in there so I wouldn’t have to come here to turn it on. Very useful. But for this scenario, we don’t need that.

So something important about the air pumps in aerating your water. So they say that you can over water cannabis. Right? Now, this example is for cannabis, and I’ll touch base and everything else and how it relates. So they say you can overwater cannabis, but that’s a lie. If you picture cannabis or actually 90% of other plants, when you grow them hydroponically, and, for instance, DWC, which is a deep water culture, you’re putting them in a bucket, and they’re underwater the whole time. And what you do is you aerate it kind of like a fish tank, right? So they’re in water 24/7 when they’re hydrogen.

I’ve done experiments with both hydroponics and in water. Okay. And I realized something very simple. When you aerate the water, the water then contains air. And when you water your plants. I used to water my plants seven, five to seven times a day when they were flowering the cannabis, because it could benefit from eating that often. And each time I’d water it, it flushed through the plant, which is very important, because the nutrients don’t build up that way. Anyways, long story short, when you aerate the water, not only are you making it so the good guys can survive, but you’re actually feeding your plants air, which is more important than you could ever comprehend, because they’re almost aquatic, the roots are.

So that’s a very important aspect that I think a lot of people don’t know. So, regarding cannabis, you cannot over water cannabis. You could just drown cannabis because it that doesn’t have air. That being said, this applies to most other plants, but some plants really prefer it being more dry than wet. So in some scenarios, you don’t want to do this, do more research about your plant and what it likes. And if it doesn’t really like a super dry environment, then this is a great way. You can keep it wet and you can keep watering them.

But if they like a dry environment, this is still good. You just don’t want to keep them wet and watered. Okay, now, I just wanted to say a bit about the mycorrhizae. Okay. Now, do you see, you see this fuzz? You would think it’s mold, right? Especially the green stuff, right? I used to breed this stuff and spread it all over my plants. Okay, so the green, the fact that it’s green is because there’s a bacteria called, I believe it’s trachydermia bacteria. Again, these are pretty complicated words. It’s hard to see them exactly the way they are.

But anyways, so this. This is mycorrhizae mixed with the trichodermia bacteria. And usually it’s white. This is some of the best things to ever see on your plants. And this is when you usually get fungus gnats, and it’s a nightmare. But they love to eat this fungus, and you need it. You absolutely need it. And it looks terrible. But I’m telling you, the plants love it. The plants love it. They absolutely love it. Oh, here’s a good example of some white, nice white, white, beautiful mycorrhizae. Now, let me run outside real quick, and I want to show you from last year.

There’s some mycorrhizae still growing through. And again, you see those spores that looks like mold almost. Tell me that’s all mycorrhizae. It’s all great stuff. It’s good stuff for your plants. This is from last year. I haven’t cleaned up out here, got this started this year. So this is all mycorrhizae naturally in the ground. And now if you go outside and you look in the woods, you’ll find this stuff all over the woods. Okay. This is some of the most important stuff you could ever have. It’s. There’s the. If you do research on fungus and how it connects the environment, there’s a whole network of mycorrhizae and fungus that connects all of the world and all of the plant world.

It’s like a network. It’s like the water connects all of the whales and dolphins. It’s literally a whole network. My mission is to discover the language of nature, and I believe nature is intelligent. There is a world under the earth full of magic and mystery. It holds the consciousness of nature’s connection to all living things. You know, these mushrooms, they can heal you, they can feed you, they can kill you. It’s not like a vegetable and it’s not like an animal, but it’s somewhere in between. They support life, they convert life as you’re walking through about 300 miles of fungi under every footstep that you take.

And that’s all over the world. The bulk of the organism is growing underground, and it’s composed of these long threads called a mycelium. Almost everyone knows about the computer Internet. The mycelium shares the same network design. It’s amazing what we don’t know about mushrooms. They really are a frontier of knowledge. You can filter water, you can create medicinal compounds almost on demand. They have incredible capacity to make things change very quickly. So I am super hopeful. The psychedelic members of the mushroom kingdom are fascinating. I have been a guide for around 350 psilocybin sessions. The most glorious part was that it made me feel more comfortable with living.

Because you’re not afraid of dying. We need to have a paradigm shift in our consciousness. What will it take to achieve that? We can heal the planet, we can build the future, and our world is fantastic. So mycorrhizae and fungus are very, very, very important. We’ll get into soil substrates later on, but this is pro mix with mycorrhizae. This has been sitting for four years. I cracked it open to use it this year. And check this out. This is some of the most amazing mycorrhizae I’ve ever seen. Almost looks like a thick spider web. Let me see if I can get down.

Really get a. So it really doesn’t do it justice. I mean, it’s just, oh, that’s beautiful. And again, you would think this is mold or spider webs. It is some of the most. I hate breaking it up because it’s so delicate, but I’ve literally bred this stuff, and it is the most important thing for your plants. I mean, cannabis, you’re tripling and double in your yield. That’s money. And of course it’s not about money, but I’m just saying that’s how crazy this stuff is. It is needed by all life. It is just some amazing stuff. Just wanted to stay off topic.

This was my other area. I set up a whole sink. It drain into the bottom. I had flower bed. Um, it was all automatic. Um, all set up. You go up here. This whole thing was a grow area. Now it is, uh, repurposed to save the planet. Water distiller dehydrator. Don’t be wearing a face mask. Uh, freeze dryer. This thing’s amazing. You’d walk over and then it would be, it would be the flower area. Okay. And this whole thing was full of hot lights, and all the lights were pumped out the heat. And it was used to heat this whole thing.

So you can actually have a grow room and use it to heat your house. So this, this seal rotted out and it was leaking. So I had to get a new hose. So be aware, after years, this steel will break and it could start leaking. Okay, so now we’re going to do the ph. It really benefit you to have multiple different ways to measure the ph or measure different fluids you’re putting inside your reservoir. It’s super important. So just remember the ph. If your plants aren’t at the right ph, if the water’s not right, they’re not the right ph.

It’s going to make the soil not the right ph. And if you don’t have a really good amount of microbes, there isn’t a really good buffer that will be nice to you and not hurt your plants. So just remember, if your plants don’t have the right ph, they can’t absorb the food and they’ll actually start to look like they’re starving, and you won’t understand why because they’ll go into. It’s so there’s two things they can go into. Nutrient lockout when you give them too much food. And then if you give them the wrong ph, they’ll also lock out nutrients because they’ll know that that ph will hurt them.

So they just won’t eat what’s there. So now we’re going to use this instead of the ph container I showed you, just for a better example. And you just want to fill it up full of water. This, we’re just going to want 8 ML. There you go, 8 ML. Then you want to go and put three to five drops. It’s super simple. So we put three in there, give it a shake. Okay, so the reason why you would want to put more is to make it more obvious. Okay. Boom. Now we got a color. All right, so this is normal tap water where I am right around 7.0.

So now what we do, it’s simple. Now we take some ph down because we want it down here. Okay? So at least we know that the tap water is at 7.0. So if I have a bucket, maybe I can have one 7.0. I’m actually choosing to do one bucket at eight, one bucket at six, and then one bucket at four. That way I can combine the six and the four and the eight to make the exact ph that I want to make it easy so I don’t have to keep playing with ph up and ph down.

So I got 2 ph down here. I really, really, really suggest, number one, get a brand new phone down so you know it’s not degraded. Number two, get a pump, put it in here and only use it for the initial mixing. Or you could also use it to pump your water to your plants. But when you have a pump in here, it’ll mix it for you fast. So we’re gonna go ahead and start with the 2 ML. If you’re doing something small like this, you may want to start with a half a milliliter or 1 ML because if you overdo it, you’re gonna have to use ph up to fix it.

So anyways, here we go. We’re gonna pop this in and then we’re going to go ahead and just plug in the pump. And now we have it mixing. So here it is after mixing. So clearly it didn’t change it much. I’m going to add four more milliliters this time and see what it does. Okay, so we’re getting close. Okay, we want to be at six. I’m going to add two more milliliters and see where we’re at. Okay, so that’s ten and it’s a nice yellow. That’s where I want to be. Okay, so you can use the math to break it down and see what the other bucket would be.

That would be 4.0. I’m not going to take the time to break it down for you, but if you want to pause it and just check out my work, I think you can figure out how easy it is. So going over to here, you want 4.0. I’m going to put that in there. Just so you know, if you don’t have a pump and you want to mix, you could get a drill. Okay, get a mixer like this and just, you know, mix it up. But in this case, I’m just going to take this and just stir it around because we want it to mix up.

See what the ph is. I’ll get back to you in a minute here. There we go. 4.0. Now listen, everybody’s water is different. All ph downs are different. This is years old and this is probably not as accurate as it once was. So don’t go bye bye measurements. Just understand, you can create your own and just get a feel for it. It’s very, very easy. This is the concept. Now what I’m going to do and not record it. For this one, I’m going to apply the same concept. But instead of ph down, I’m going to start with ph up and I’m going to get it to 8.0.

That’s ph. It’s easy. Don’t let it intimidate you. It’s just like a pool or a hot tub. It is easy. Something very important to remember. After you have the four and the eight and the neutral, you can begin to make a mixture of whatever you need in the other area. And make sure you confirm it with your easy ph down. And ph up tester kit after you fill your reservoirs. Just keep in mind, we’re not done here yet. You’re going to want these to sit the room temperature. Right now, they’re kind of chilly. I’d say it’s probably 60 degrees.

Some plants can handle it, some can’t. And for cannabis, specifically, when it’s getting into flower and you’re in the last few weeks and you’re done, some people like to pretend it’s the winter for the plant, so it then produces extra protectant, which is resin, trichomes, and all of the different cannabinoids. So sometimes they feed them ice water. So cold water does have its benefits. And I’m sure other plants, it’ll trigger different things in them as well. But just keep in mind, overall, you want it a neutral temperature, a room temperature, and then the last thing to take note of before we move on, to add the microbes.

You want to cover your reservoirs. After we’re done doing this, just in case I forget to tell you, you want to keep these covered. They don’t need to be airtight. You don’t want things to evaporate. If it evaporates, it’ll start to concentrate. Whatever you put in here, whether it’s food or ph down, ph up, you don’t want it to evaporate. A little bit of evaporation is not a big deal. But overall, depending on the volume and how long it’s going to be sitting here, you just want to have good practices, and preventing the evaporation is something you definitely want to do.

Another important aspect, if you’re going to be adding a bunch of food in here, different salts or foods for cannabis, who needs a lot of food? Make sure I would keep a pump in here, especially if it’s salts. If it’s salt based minerals of plant food, mycorrhizae won’t be able to live in here. So just keep a pump, a small, small pump going at all times. You don’t need a crazy pump, but keep it mixing. It’s important. After you label your buckets and you know how much of ph up and ph down to put in when you fill them up, then you want to grab your pond detoxifier.

This will neutralize the chloramine and chlorine, and it’s always really easy if you follow directions, usually there’ll be something easier. You can convert it. Just so you know, real quick in this, I’m telling you, this helps so much. Anyways, we’re gonna add this in. We’re gonna add a little bit of this in. And again. So we’ll start with this. So with this, you want to shake it up. This is humic acid. They make humic acid from compost. So they’ll have things decomposing in compost. And the liquid that comes from that is humic acid. It’s very, very good for microbes.

You just want to give it a kiss. That’s it. That’ll go in there, and it’ll neutralize a lot of the chlorine and chloramine. Okay, so now we move on to the pond detoxifier. I won’t bore you with that. You just follow the directions. Put it in there and turn your pup on. Or stir it up. So after you mix these up, you let them sit for a while. You don’t got to wait too long. I’ve been pretty quick with it. It had good results, but I’m gonna wait about 30 minutes just to be safe. You could wait an hour if you want.

It doesn’t really matter. They say it’s instant, but I like to give it a bit and let us let it stir around before I add the microbes, because we really don’t want to hurt those guys. So now we’re gonna add the microbes. Okay. So, for instance, you can follow the directions, but you just gotta keep, you know, get a feel for it. Keep this in mind. So here we have the bacillus thungirlias, or whatever it is. And this is the antifungus gnat bacteria, which, like I said, you only need one bacteria. But the more you put in here, the more they do.

So we’re just gonna go ahead and sprinkle a little in there, a little in there. Boom. Okay, now, these are. It’s like sea monkeys. Now, they’re gonna go in here, and they’re alive. They’re gonna. They’re gonna live. And that humic acid in there is gonna feed them. So in the air is gonna keep them alive. So now we have a fish tank of literally microscopic fish that your plant need to thrive and survive. So at this rate, I would also add some of my photosynthesis plus. But unfortunately, mine has gone bad, so I need to order more.

But this is fine because this will work for me for now. And again, I don’t suggest this raid off, but this is something you can do, is add just a kiss. A kiss of sugar, because we’re not flowering. But that little bit of sugar in there will feed those sea monkeys and do things you would never even imagine. Now, the last thing I’ll say about ph, what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna do research on microbes, because look, now look at these bubbles compared to these bubbles, there’s nothing different. These are both done the same way, but the ph here is four, the ph here is eight.

So these are completely different acidic versus alkaline levels here. And I want to do research on specific the bacillus thungarelius and see which acidity it can handle, if one or the other, or if not both. And it’ll be good for me to know because potentially, if this was a more serious thing, if I was growing cannabis and I had a lot of money invested into this, potentially this. Those could die in one of these reservoirs, and it could become anaerobic and it could be bad for your plants, and you could have a nasty thing, a nasty reservoir, and the water could cause things like root rot.

And that’s something you absolutely do not want. Now, if you go the opposite way and just keep a sanitary reservoir, which is really hard, that’s what I did when I first started doing hydroponics. You wouldn’t put microbes in here and you’d keep putting things like either a kiss of bleach, and again, you can get into that. It is safe for some of the plants to have, but a better option would be you can order hydrogen peroxide and you can order really high percentages of it that’ll burn your skin if you touch it, but you just put a kiss of that in there and it literally oxygenates the water because of the oxidization process that the hydrogen peroxide does with the bad bacteria, and then the water stays sterile.

But I don’t suggest that. I’ve found it to be a lot easier to work with nature. And you know that. That’s the vibe, and you can fill it in your heart, and that’s why we’re here today doing this video. And of course, because we’re not using pumps, let’s add a kiss of mycorrhizae. This is that white fungus. Okay. These are the spores. Beautiful stuff. I just. It looks cloudy and gross to you, but I know for the plants, they’re going to respond in such a way that you’re going to feel it, not just see it, but you can feel it, how happy they are, and you just feel happy.

I’m telling you, it’s amazing. I’m glad I’m getting back into this. Now, the last thing I’ll say about reservoirs, that at this stage, you would add your nutrients. Okay. Most nutrients are salt based. You can keep playing the game of adding the microbes, but they’ll keep dying in the salt over time. But you can use microbes with salt. You can actually do some research, and some microbes don’t mind salt, and some really do. Anyways, through my research, the salt based nutrients kill the mycorrhizae. And that’s a no no. So I went from, you know, salts from years, which gave me amazing results.

Salt sounds bad, but that’s just, it’s anytime that you’re in a laboratory and you’re trying to like isolate potassium or nitrogen, it’s gonna come out in a salt form because they dry it and it crystallizes. So that just, it’s just, it’s not like it’s salt, but it’s like a bath salt. And it’s not that it’s bath salts, it’s just a, it’s a, it’s a, like a chemistry term in my case. What I’m gonna do is I’m gonna use something called progressive, and it’s pasteurized chicken poop. So I’m not going to put anything inside my reservoirs. I’m going to keep it clean.

No food. And that’s, you know, a lot of people may want that. If you’re growing more than one plant, you don’t want a crazy concentration of food because cannabis needs probably like a 2.0 ec. And again, we’ll get, I should touch base on EC in a minute, but cannabis wants a 2.0 ec, and when it’s flowering, it can have up to a 3.0 ec. Right. And in some cases, when you’re adding CO2, in other cases they can go even higher. Well, other plants may want to, you know, probably 0.1 to 1.0 ec. So if you give them too much nutrients, a plant that can’t handle it, they will lock out cannabis.

You can feed every single day. Other plants need to be fed once a week, so that’s a whole different thing to get into. So when you’re choosing a food, it really depends on if you’re just growing cannabis or if you’re going to branch out the other plants and herbs. So like I said, keeping it neutral with no nutrients inside your reservoir, I think is the best bet for you, at least starting off. Alright, just a heads up, this is how I decided to cover the buckets. No big deal. It just stops at least a little bit of the evaporation.

No big deal, really easy to do. Again, you don’t have to seal it. This isn’t perfection here. There is a level of buffer because it is nature. All right? So I just wanted to go over to germination real quick. Alright, so when you’re germinating seeds, there’s two different kinds. All right, so this is an example of a dark dependent seed. It’s a pretty good sized seed, one of the biggest seeds. Okay? So they’re probably dark dependent. An example of a light dependent seed is chamomile. Okay, now this is what camomile looks like. See those, you know, small, those are.

So we have light to dependent seeds and we have dark dependent seeds. Pretty simple. So this method I learned a long time ago, and it’s real basic, but really I did a lot of research on this. And the research says that, that seeds need oxygen, micronutrients and macronutrients, and of course, water. So I’ll show you two methods. This is the first one I learned. And it’s very simple. You get some paper towels, you get two plates. This speeds it up. And you can also put it on top of a boiler or something warm or a heater.

This is 90 degrees. It’s a heat mat for seeds. And you can absolutely get one of these. They’re great. Now, the first thing you do is you take one layer, maybe even two. Okay? Take that. Then you take your spring water. And again, try to be as sterile as possible. And you just want to get it wet, just like that. Now this is going to simulate the soil perfectly in a sterile environment for any seed during germination. Now, usually you want to spread these seeds around. You could get some tweezers for this, but for this case, we’re just making it happen.

All right, so the next step, you want to grab more paper towels, layer them on. Don’t be as sloppy as I am. You don’t want it sopping wet. That’s why there’s a lot of paper towels. If you wear gloves, you’ll probably have more success. All right, so this is good for me. I think it could be a little less wet, but I think it’ll do. So the great thing about nature is there’s always a range. It’s never a specific answer. Very forgiving. All right, so now we don’t want light on these guys. So obviously porcelain will keep the light out.

And this can just hang out right here. You could also put it in a tupperware inside of a drawer. You can do many different things. This way is pretty easy. And it works. 99.9% of the time in probably three days to a week, depending on what the seed is. Seed germination update. This is 24 hours later. As you see here with the heat method and just the normal plain spring water, they’re germinated and they’re ready to be planted. And these, again, are pumpkins. See them sprouting? Those are now germinated. So if you look at these, these are light dependent.

We have chamomile and thyme. This is an experiment I’m doing. Some of these are rain water mixed with distilled water and humic acid. Some of these are no rain water and just distilled water and humic acid. Some of them are spring water. Some of them are just distilled water. Doing an experiment. I’ll definitely let you know how it goes, so you’ll have to tune back in. But down here we have, these are the soils that I used. Okay. And in this experiment, these soils are mixed with mycorrhizae. So what’s left in these, I’m gonna just let hang out here, and I bet you it’s gonna form a bunch of mycorrhizae that I could then transplant these seedlings into.

And I’ll get into mycorrhizae a little bit more. But it’s a absolutely amazing and needed, and it’s great for transplanting and for seedlings, and it blasts everything off. So down here we have a bunch of dark, dependent strains. All right, so here’s the experiment from yesterday. Spring water, distilled water. These have perlite on the bottom for drainage. That’s in case someone over waters one of these, me, and it’ll go down. And this is also sand. All purpose play sand. And then that’s for some vermiculite with some bean seeds on the top. Vermiculite holds moisture. So this is just an attempt that I’m doing as an experiment.

I do many experiments, and I want to see how this will work. And again, this is all different types of water from distilled water, spring water. And again, I’m comparing these different methods, and I’m also going to be making plant food and comparing those methods. And it’s actually really easy to make plant food by just smashing plants together. And I’ll get into that as well. So definitely follow. Go to ino nature.com. i’ll be updating all these things here and also putting it all into a book that I’ll have available for free. Just trying to make a difference out here.

And again, you know, this is just the different experiment aspects. The humic acid. If you don’t know what humic acid is, it’s basically a tincture of water and compost. So you have things composting and you won’t pour water into it. You let it ferment, and then you get the water out and you filter it. I buy mine commercially, but you can absolutely make it. And it just. It’s full of such amazing things, it’s. It’s not even funny. Spring water is the winner here. All right, so these are cucumbers. All of them have popped within 24 hours.

This is sand and vermiculite. They’re mixed with. They’re all popped. These are doing pretty well. See that one reaching to dig? Okay, so I think they all did well. So this light, I believe, is 3000. And seedlings can handle 3000 to 7000 lm. So this right here, I believe, is 3000. So according to the research, this should be fine for me, it feels like a little much. And I’m also doing an experiment here with the beans, which are dark dependent. I’m going to see how they do. And I also. I also have some light dependent in the dark, and I’m going to see how those do.

So again, always experiment, but write your experiments down so you don’t forget. And then when all your notes accumulate, you can put them all up into a publication and at least never forget what you know and share it with other people. So it’s only been a minute and we’re already up 4% humidity and we’re rising just by turning down this. Now, if you want to add more humidity to your area, you can have something with a lot of surface area and just put some water in it. You can have plants draining into it and keep keeping the water.

That’ll humidify the area. Just make sure you have air blowing around it. And then you could get something like this. I love the retrofit things. I retrofitted this. I gotta fix it. But this sprays a bunch of water when it’s in peak condition. It’ll bring up a bunch of humidity by just pulling air through here. So things like this you can make at home easy. You could get a bucket and do this. You don’t need something crazy like this. All right, so just a couple pro tips. So when it comes to humidity, as you pump out humidity from your area, okay.

It’s gonna go into your area, whether it’s your basement or whatnot. You could pump it out into not something this big, but a grow tent that is called a lung. Okay. And you can pump that air into the lung and have a dehumidifier in there so you, so it buffers the air before it comes out. That’s one thing you can do. But here’s a pro tip. You could have a dehumidifier out here like this, and you could have this a little higher and have this draining into a, or have this hose going from the dehumidifier back into your grow room.

Okay, so the grow room always has the humidity back in the grow room. Obviously it’s going to keep ripping the humidity out anyway. But instead of wasting it, and then you have to keep putting more water, why not just have them cycle back in? Right. There’s a pro tip for you that will help a lot. I guarantee it. So I did end up deciding to run that tube, and this is how you do it. Okay. So just make sure this part is higher than whatever you’re gonna put that tube in. So for me, that’ll do. You go ahead and just connect it.

You can hot glue it. You do a bunch of different things that just happen to fit in that diameter perfectly. And it’ll slowly trickle. Then you come over here so it comes up underneath. Okay, now just remember, this will, it’ll come out of here as long as it doesn’t go above where that hose is. So you can just pop it right in this bucket. And you know for a fact, as this water accumulates, it’s either going to go up that side of the hose or this side of the hose, whichever is lower. So it’s going to accumulate and it’s going to come out of this hose into this bucket.

That’s just the way physics works really good for us. Because then you have literally distilled water that you, that has no chemicals in it. And that is really, really good for plants and other aspects of so many things like spraying plants. This is really good water for spraying plants. Alright, so let’s talk about our different substrates real quick. This is pro mix. Okay? This is a great neutral substrate. It’s got a bunch of different things in it, probably perlite, vermiculite. This is a great substrate because it’s neutral when you get things at the same store. Okay.

Like Lowe’s, most of it’s gonna have fertilizer built into it and most of its crap garbage. Miracle grows built into a lot of crap garbage. You don’t want any of that. You want something neutral. My method kind of ended up going into hydroponics, slash soil. Okay. It was like a hybrid method. Now, when you’re doing herbs and you’re not just doing cannabis, you don’t want to do that because some of the plants definitely like a drier substrate. So you’re going to need something completely different for different plants. Something like cocoa core is supposed to be neutral, but it actually is high in potassium.

So make sure you just do a lot of research about what you’re going to use for a substrate. You really can’t go wrong with pro mix in general. Some plants, like orchids, really need some crazy like air. But anyways, most plants are really going to love pro mix. And this has something called mycorrhizae built into it. And I think I’ve said that multiple times. Mycorrhizae is absolutely amazing for so many different things. When you’re transplanting, it literally is a godsend. Usually plants get a little droopy and a little upset when you transplant. We’re going to transport this guy in a second.

And usually, well, female. Usually what happens is they get droopy, they get upset, but when you have mycorrhizae, they actually don’t get upset. And not only do they not get upset, but they thrive. And you just see this fuzz on top of the soil and it just, it looks amazing. So anyways, that you really want something neutral. Now, if you’re gonna get into organic and soil, be combining things like bone meal and other organic different things that will, that the microbes will eat and provide food for your plant. So you actually keep giving the microbes food and then it keeps providing food for your plant.

But that’s advanced. So I would start with this. Pro mix is a great place to start. I love pro mix because it’s very versatile for the many different things that I do. Alright, so the thing about pro mix, it comes in a big chunk and you’re gonna have to break it up. It’s a big pain in the butt, you gotta break it up. But when it’s a powder like this, you need to add water to it because it’s really hydrophobic. So it’s a pain. But when you have a bucket and you take, you do one part water to three part pro mix, add it to your bucket, one, two, three.

Then you want to go over to your reservoir. You always want your transplants and seedlings to have a neutral ph, especially if you’re germinating, you want a neutral ph, different seedlings maybe not so much, but always when you’re germinating, you want a neutral physical. So we put this in there, you want to put the lid on, and you want to shake it. This is key. Otherwise, when you water your plant, the water will just stay on top of the pro mix, and it won’t penetrate. But when you break the surface tension like this, then it’ll be good to go for your entire time.

You want to get in there with your hands? Yeah. This is pretty wet right here. When you’re transplanting them, moisture is the key. So here’s two additives. There’s many things you can add. Two organic additives. We have perlite. Okay. This right here is a big bag of perlite. And if you look inside of here, look inside. Okay. Perlite is for draining. Okay. This doesn’t like it lets water pass through it. It’s kind of like mini rock. This is volcanic rock. So perlite is for drainage. You can mix it with your soil so you could have more air in it, in your soil.

And it’s really good for at the bottom. If you’re trying to have things drain, kind of like rocks, but, yeah, that’s perlite. And then there’s vermiculite. And always wear a mask when this stuff’s making dust. This is vermiculite. All right, vermiculite. So this stuff is hydrophilic. This stuff absorbs water. Okay. But just like the pro mix, you have to pre wet it. For this application, I’m gonna add a handful of vermiculite. Okay. And then I’m going to mix it around. Okay. The other important thing is you want to add your microrrhizae. Usually, they give you a suggestion of how much to add for how much, but I just like to give it a kiss because it grows and it spreads.

Give it a kiss. Okay. This is only one kind, I’ll be honest with you, to use this just because this is multiple kinds of mycorrhizae and bacteria that you need. So this is all. I love these guys. I used to grow mycorrhizae, and this was the best success that I had with growing mycorrhizae. This. I’m telling you, this stuff’s good. So I’m gonna give it a kiss of that. Remember, less is more with everything, okay? You’re just giving a kiss of nature. All right? And you want to get back in there and mix it up. So you’re putting those fungus spores all up into your substrate.

Okay. Make sure you get all the way down at the bottom. Okay. So next we got to think about what kind of container to use. So this is called a cloth pot. The cool things about these that a lot of people don’t know. So when you have a plant and it starts to get root bound, okay, it’s when the roots start curling up in the bottom of a planter, and they grow into each other, and then they pretty much die because they choke themselves. So this is cool for young plants, because when the roots hit the side of a cloth pot, it air prunes the roots, which means as soon as the roots hit the air, they die off.

They split back into two different roots, and you literally are creating a root pruned root system. So when you transplant it again, it blasts off and has the best root structure. So cloth pots and root pruning are a really good technique. And also, as they root prune, they can’t get root bound in these cloth pots. So for this specific plant, we’re going to absolutely use this cloth pot. So when you’re transplanting, you just want to be real gentle. Okay. And then put your finger here like this. Tilt. Okay. Look at that root structure. Okay. Now, I’ve even taken these apart and washed them in the sink.

Converted plants like this into hydroponics. I’ve tested a bunch of this stuff. They’re pretty hardy. Most plants are very hardy. If you’re ever gonna transplant. I just found a whole field of mullein. Okay. They can go in water just like a rose. Just keep the roots out of air. They should be happy until you’re ready. The sooner the better, and obviously younger, older, weaker. Bunch of different scenarios, but this is what you do, and they’ll be okay. We even got the. This big guy we literally found. Oh, yeah. And you can also wrap them and just keep it moist.

Some plants are more tolerant to this than others. Experiment. I’m going to attempt to take this one inside. I cut it down to the bare minimum growth. To reduce as many pests as possible. Use some hydrogen peroxide, and I just let it bubble. This is the second time I am doing it. And if you look in here, see that, that little nematode thing? I don’t know what it is, but that worm came off the roots, and if I didn’t do that, that worm would then turn into whatever else it could be, and it’d be in the grow room.

So, yeah, peroxide is really good. Cannabis can handle something like this. We’ll see if mullein, can I reduce this big mullein to a baby? Mullein should be sterile, and then we’ll put mycorrhizae on after. They should protect it and keep all the other bad guys away. The mullein. After a few days, it’s been in the shade with a nice warm base, and so far it is still content. And I think it’s probably rooting. And soon I’ll be able to put it in the light and it’ll grow into a mullein indoors. But all the baby mullins. We’ll see how they do.

Sometimes they cry when you transplant them. You don’t want to be playing games with this, like this right now, but I want to show you one more technique. Okay. You can actually take this and just put a little bit of powder all the way around. Okay. And then what we do is set her in here. We take a handful on a decent foundation. Right? I always love to try to bury a node or. Or maybe the bottom of a node just to give it support. This seems like a strong clone, though. So this wasn’t grown from a seed.

This is a cutting. That’s another video about a clone. It’s called propagation. How to graft. That’s crazy. Literally, take different strains and cut one strain off one and graft it onto another strain, and you can grow two different strains from one plant. You could also do that with apple trees. You could do it with nuts, nut trees. So when you have it in here like this, okay, give it a jingle. Make sure there’s no air pockets. Then you want to make sure you’re not going to hurt it, and you want to push down. They like it when it’s compact, like it’s.

It’s been in the ground its whole life. So you make it compact, and it’ll feel like it was never even out of place. In fact, it’ll be even more happy than it ever was. Now, one more aspect about plants, okay? The lower leaves that aren’t going to get a lot of light, they’re just. When a. When a leaf. When a solar panel, which is a leaf, doesn’t get a lot of light, then they start sucking from the plant. And if the leaf is dying, it starts sucking from the plant, and that gives. That takes nutrients away from other growth that it can do to fix itself.

So it’s kind of. It’s like a downward spiral that gets worse and worse when the plant has leaves that start to get messed up. So it’s really important to keep the leaves in good shape. And when you want them to root, you can do things like cut the tips off of some of these leaves, and it’ll actually redistribute the energy to the root area. So that this is with cannabis, and it’s with a lot of other plants. I’m not sure if it’s all other plants, but I always love to cut the top off of all plants that I either clone or even when they really get to this size, because when every time you cut off a top, it then multiplies into a bush.

Okay. I always love to have more area for flower rather than less area for flowers. So this is, this is it, really. It’s gonna be happy and it’s going to grow. And you’ll see when it catches on, it’s gonna be annoying because you’re gonna have to cut stuff off all the time, and as it gets bushy, you’re gonna have to defoliate it. And that’s, that’s a lot of things with a lot of these plants, as they get bushy, you want to really keep the air flowing in there, because you can prevent disease that way. Trust me.

Now, I’m gonna start some seedlings. There’s a bunch of different ways to do this, but I’m gonna do it a specific way. And you can absolutely do a different way at your house. And in fact, I suggest it. Just remember, the more basic, the more simple, the better. And remember, they need oxygen, nutrients, and water, and light. Not all of them need light, but the light dependent ones need light. So what I’m going to do here is something that I don’t usually do, but basically, the water accumulates in this down here. And what I want to do is I want to put perlite, which helps strain.

I want to put at the bottom of each one of these. So that way, when water is down there, it doesn’t necessarily wick up into the substrate, which I’m going to keep. I’m gonna have to put vermiculite in it so it stays a little spongier and holds more water. I don’t want it to necessarily stay sopping. So I’m gonna just put a barrier between this moisture that is needed, because it’s gonna get trapped in the dome. The humidity from below here will come up and get trapped in the dome. But you don’t necessarily want to wick it up and have, and have a swamp where your seeds are all, or any plant is, unless they really love water, which not a lot love water.

Now, because these are seedlings, I’m going to add a little bit more vermiculite to the mix. Not too much. Don’t go crazy. It’s like sponge. It’s a mineral, though. It’s like a rock. Porous rock. Okay, so now I’m going to go ahead and add the soil to this. All right, that’s good. Keep in mind, you really should wear gloves for this. People’s hands have a lot of germs that you really don’t want associated. Hopefully it doesn’t mess too much up, but just keep that in mind for next time, because if I have any issues, I’m coming back doing this again, wearing gloves.

So go ahead, push each one down. The more uneven, the better when you look it up. Mycorrhizae is really symbiotic with seeds. It protects them from bad germs, it helps them with nutrient uptake, protects them from drought. It’s very important. Make sure you get yourself some labels, okay. Some that are labels. And I’m going to go ahead and label each plot before I pop these in. Okay. So as I’m doing this, I just wanted to let you know, so going forward, because we’re growing indoors this summer, thyme or any other plant, as you’re doing a bunch of different seeds, each seed is going to be a different phenotype.

Okay? So in cannabis, it’s super important. People go on pheno hunts. So phenotype is like, you know, if you have a brother and a sister, you guys are all different phenotypes of your parents. So basically these are all different possibilities of having a really fast grower, really big yielder. If we could test the compounds, all the compound levels would be different. Just like there’s different CBD and THC and cannabis. So each different row is going to be a different phenotype. So you may want to pay attention to which one’s growing better and keep that as the one that you keep duplicating.

You’ll have a lot more success going down the road, because when you do the little guys, you always get a bunch. What I like to do is split them up when they’re at this point. A lot of people like to wait. Some people may do it sooner, but one thing that’s really cool are these. You can go right to the grocery store and get these. I believe they’re $3.99 for a five pack. And you can do this. And what you can do is just drill a couple holes in the side and leave a little room for the reservoir down there, and it’ll actually add some humidity to it.

And if the seedlings are still really small. Look at that. You got a lid. That’s perfect. Look at these little things. It’s perfect for herbs. Bring it outside, bring it somewhere, give it to a friend. Look at that. And also these cups. See that? Boom, look at that. So what I do is I drill them all in a big stack, drill holes in them, and you can use them like that. The roots don’t like light, but it’s not the end of the world. And it’s great for seedlings. And when they’re in this, they’re not really going to see that much light anyway.

Little cool tips and tricks. So I want to show you an example of trying to get a phenotype. So you can do this for any seed, cannabis, whatever, but this specific is going to be garden sage. So here we see a bunch of popped seeds. I’m going to pick a couple of the biggest ones and I’m going to attempt to isolate them and put them in a different container. So to do that, you need something like a knife. Okay. Take it down the side, and then you shimmy it out. Look at these roots. Okay, so now isolate the one that I wanted.

Okay, so now they see how they kind of crumble apart. Once you have the one you want, you just lightly help them. Okay. Once you have the one you want, be very careful of the tap root. The quicker you are with this, the better. So just make a big old hole. Be gentle, gentle, very gentle. Okay, you want to just slowly pack her in, and that’s good. So at this stage, there’s still plenty of room for them to grow and they will get their bearings. And the firmer ground you give them without hurting the root, the better new grass they’ll have.

Now, keep in mind, some seedlings can’t handle this, but with the mycorrhizae and keeping everything wet and being quick, you can do this. And there you go. There’s one stage isolated, and you can do this with any of these. So now if you have a bunch of seeds and you’re like, what do I, what do I do with this mess? Something you can do is stick them in some water. Okay. Just throw them right in, shake it around. Okay. And it’ll separate them and make them very clean for you to transplant. Okay, that’s another quick tip.

Be quick. Okay, I got them all labeled. Now we’re going to go through and we’re going to just sprinkle these on top of the areas where they belong. You’re going to want to save these because they tell you the species on them and details that you need. Pour it into your hand and pinch it. It works a lot easier. Okay, so after you have all your seeds in here, just keep in mind, when you created these little pods, you wanted them to be like the earth. And now it’s like all of the seeds fell off these plants and hit this, hit the soil.

And the best case scenario is in the spring when the flood happens, all of the seeds will be washed into the sand and some will be half sticking out. These guys need to be on the top. So that being said, you want to cover them so they feel like they’re cozy, but you don’t want them not to get light because remember, these guys are light dependent in order to activate. So we’re going to add just a little bit of vermiculite because it’s going to keep a little bit of moisture with them just on the top of each one.

You don’t want too much, like I said. Now we’re going to add some jury like. Now this stuff will make them feel cozy without draining that or without drowning them. All right, well, light to get through as well. We don’t want anything crazy. Some of these may have a little mutt. We’ll see how it plays out. All right, that should be good. All right, now we pop on the hood, we bring it in the area and when it’s in there, we give it a final spritz. Okay, so once they’re in place, you want to get some spring water, some good water, not tap water.

And you want to just give them a spritz. This will put some water in the vermiculite, make it feel like springtime. Right. I’m going to pour some water underneath this so that way there’s some humidity in there, which is key. Key. Springtime. Everything’s wet in spring. Remember, they need oxygen, so don’t close the holes all the way. And as they get bigger, you want to open the holes more, let more air in. Then you wait. This light is 3000. Guess these guys can handle 3000 to 7000 according to the research. So I guess we’ll see. So a really cost effective, easy way is to plant things inside of a solo cup.

Just make sure you label it and you cut off little slits. I’ll show you what it looks like when it’s done. Make sure you put as much details as you can on your cup. Pumpkin, 6.8 ph. You should put it whether or not it loves water or not. And maybe the temperature, maybe how much light it wants. So it’s all on here. Then transfer it to each container until you memorize it. Second thing is you really want to pack down what’s in here because you want it to be like the ground. Remember, you’re basically replacing nature.

After you have these like this, you want to go ahead and put a hole in each one. When you put the seeds in, you want to put the seeds in with the tap root down. So this is the taproot right there. Okay. Always use gloves, stay sterile. They probably will still be okay, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. Be very careful of the taproot. If you break it, you’ll basically destroy the seed and it’s done. So you want to lightly bury it and make sure you do halfway full. That way, if these seedlings or any other seedlings stretch, you can support it with more substrate.

Very important tip. So now this is exactly why you wanted room in your cups. Now you see, if they get wobbly, now you can just fill it up to here. And now they’re restabilized. Seedlings always love to do this. And also when you have seedlings like this, you want fans on them, so they’re always moving. Right now, I’m not doing that. That’s why I’m bringing it up. I need to do that. And that’s because they, they literally work out and that’s how you get the seedlings stronger. These are all the cucumbers. Just remember, some seeds like to be deep, some don’t.

But for the most part, Mother Nature just has the seeds on top of the soil. And usually they do their thing, something to make bigger seeds germinate faster. You can cut just barely the tip of the exterior of the, of the seed and you’ll allow water to get in there faster. But as you saw when you this method, there’s really no need for that. Keep in mind that the darker germinating seeds germinate a lot faster than the other seeds that like light. So to boost and protect them, I’m going to go ahead and just add a little bit of mycorrhizae to the water that I’m going to water them with.

Okay. Now it really helps if you have two of these because now you can just transfer water from one to another. Real quick transfer back, just mix it up in there. That’s all. Alright. Now that mycorrhizae is mixed up, now we don’t want too much water. They don’t like too, too much water, but we want them to have a good amount because they’re babies. I’m being careful not to hit them in the middle. I’m just going around the outsides, and then it’ll. It’ll moisten up into the middle. That’s because I don’t want to disturb my hole.

I don’t want it to be a Noah’s ark flood here. And just keep in mind, I did cut slits into the bottom here. Slits are important. And there you go. Now, these will be good to go with it. With the tops off underneath the light. Super important necessity. Whenever you’re watering any of your plants or anything that you’re growing and you’re feeding it, make sure you absolutely flush the plant. Otherwise it’ll get lockout. And when you flush it, if you’re flushing a plant, this is one of the best ways to do it. You put it over a grate and you can absolutely have it go into a bucket.

And this bucket I have coming out, and usually it’s pointing into this area where everything drains out, but unfortunately, I think it’s sticking out of there. So I’ll fix that. But anyways, really helpful. You sit and let it drain. That way, you’re not filling up your areas, your reservoirs, your drip trays. And this is a really good tip and technique for making sure that you flush all the way through. Make sure it’s clean every time. And, yeah, it’s just like a nice, good rain. They love it. So it’s only been about a week, and I got almost everything to germinate.

And it’s. It’s that easy. It literally is that easy. I’m nothing special. I’m not doing anything special. Keeping mind if you love what you’re doing, it’s always the grow room is always going to change. You’re always going to add new lights, upgrade it. As things get bigger, you’re going to need new things. You’re going to need to adapt. It’s a lot of fun and it’s really rewarding because eventually, once you know what you’re doing, not only can you heal yourself, but you can feed yourself. So I really hope this has helped you. There was a stage in my life where this is all I did.

And I was so passionate about it, and I learned so much. And I was going to gatekeep it because this was going to be my career. And then I realized that the world was bigger than just me. And now my new mindset is, take everything I know because it’s yours and you’re me and I am you. Anyways, I really hope you enjoyed it. One more gift I have for you is my recipes, my amazing recipes. Just real quickly to go over them. The first recipe is a recipe of Jack’s nutrients. It’s really, really easy to do.

Don’t let it intimidate you. If you mix the raw salts together, they can lock out. It explains all this inside of the PDF. It’s very easy to do. Basically, you make an a and a b. They come in a salt. You mix them with water, you weigh a certain amount out, you mix them with water, then you have an a and a b, and you add a certain amount of a and a certain amount of b to each time. You make a reservoir. Really, really easy. And I laid it out for you. If you’re growing like two to four plants or just veggies, this could last you two to four years for just buying two bags.

So that’s around $200 lasting you to two to four years. And again, this is synthetic nutrients, but it’s very clean, it’s not dirty, and not the worst thing in the world. And I’ve had amazing results with it. And then the next thing I get into is my secret formulas. Very important. When you’re flowering cannabis, you want to back off on the nutrients and you want to start feeding them more sugars and more carbs. It’s very important. And I gave you my secret carb recipe. Also, compost tea is so important. You’re taking the microbes and you’re boosting them and breeding them over a 24 to 48 hours period.

I get into that and I even give you all the science behind it. So one thing that companies love to do is to have their formulas and charge you a bunch of money for water. So one of the formulas, I believe, is super thrive. And one of the big things is vitamin B. I just looked at the back of it, crunched the numbers, and I figured out how much vitamin B they’re using in this. And I just bought pure vitamin B, and I created my own cheap, amazing, thriving version of the formula called ultra B. I also included that.

So I really wanted to get into growing with soil and organic. And I did a lot of research with, like, these insane growers on Instagram. Growing cannabis with organics, you need to bring the heat. So I literally gave you the super soil recipe. It’s very easy. You mix it together and let it cook for four to six weeks in a tote. It’s so easy. You mix all the materials together. You just follow my directions. Mix it in the tote. This, it looks intimidating. But if you just relax and read, just have faith and confidence that I put it in a way that’s actually very, very easy.

So if it’s intimidating or if it looks like a lot of information, stop thinking that way because it’s not and you’re screwing yourself over. So this stuff is so easy, so amazing. I even put the PDF in this video so it would be immortal with this video. This video should be anything that anybody ever needs to grow. Anything at any point in time, indoors, outdoors, herb, cannabis, whatever, and it’s done. I’m GK with the disclosure hub. I’m exposing way more than this grow aspect, but this is one of the most important things to my new series.

I know nature and that’s for green Mountain greenery, where we get into all of these different herbs, how to grow, how to make tinctures, and this is the indoor growing aspect. So definitely go to iknownature.com, follow all of the amazing information, learn about herbs. I’m thorough with everything, everything that I create. I want to. I want it to be the last resource you need so we can stop playing games. Stop playing games with the research. No one has time with that. I will do the research for you. I will give it to you for free. And it’s just because love.

That’s it. This is what I do every single day. You don’t need to pay a dollar. You just need to benefit from my work. And that’s it. This has been GK with the disclosure hub and this has been. I know nature from Green Mountain greenery, greenmountaingreenery, dot in fo.
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